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8

What was your position ? Q♥6♥ is a hand I would've only played only for a steal (maybe) or in SB (also maybe). It's less than an average hand. The fact also you got 3 callers sounds like you were in a very loose table. I expect at least one out there to have a better Q than yours. CBet was reasonable, but the bet size was plain wrong in my ...


6

It affects strategy in no-limit, and especially pot-limit play. Some simple examples: There's $300 in the pot, and you plan to try a $200 bluff to take it. Well, if one of your opponent's only has $50 left, then you're really only betting $50 at him, and he can call with much less risk. Similarly, if you make a $50 bet on an early round, and your opponent ...


5

Many people have an impression that because the chip leader at a table has the majority of the chips, they should be "bullying" the table. This isn't the best way to look at the situation. What a large stack gives you is more utility. The utility to outplay your opponents by having the full arsenal of poker moves at your disposal. If you were short stacked, ...


5

I think this is the wrong way to think about what happened: I don't want this to happen again The situation you were in was a dream; a player willing to get it in while you held the better hand? Again and again for lots of money? I want that to happen as often as possible! The fact that you can lose (and lose a lot) in these situations is something you ...


4

Don't blame the "bad players" for you losing all your money with a one-pair hand. If limp-calling a low pair preflop vs you is making them money when they hit their set, it's not them that is playing poorly, but you. They are playing profitably because you are paying off time after time. I'm not trying to be harsh, but to shine the light of reality on ...


4

I think it's important to not try to bite off too much at once. You're right that you have a lot of options, but focusing on one thing and really attacking that is IMO always going to be more productive than a casual perusal of a variety of topics. You might want to look at some of the online coaching sites like CardRunners, Run It Once, or Tournament Poker ...


4

If you cover everyone at the table but no one covers you, then you have a ton of fold equity preflop. Most people will be folding almost everything whenever you open the pot. So you should open raise very often. As big stack you can often steal the blinds from any position. A few orbits of collecting the blinds in a tournament and your stack will be ...


4

The best way to beat this kind of player is tight-aggressive. you're not going to outplay this one, you're not going to bluff them, and you're certainly not going to be able to control them. All you can do is beat them. But it requires very disciplined uncreative play. You let them self destruct right into your stack. This kind of player is going to raise ...


3

What kind of plays could I make to convince my opponents that I have a polarised hand range? You don't make plays to convince your opponents that you have a polarized hand range, you just polarize your hand range. If they fail to pick up on that, you've profited greatly. There are generally three types of ranges: Polarized With a polarized range, your ...


3

I'll give you my perspective as someone who has abandoned cash games in favor of only doing live MTTs. I think a lot of this will depend on your current level of experience and your game will change over time. Of course, you need to be sound in things like picking your pre-flop hands, but these are some things that I know I need to work on for my tourneys: ...


3

Haha... I know the type. You're ahead but he sucks out on the turn or river and stacks you. It's allright... we all have been here. A basic poker sentence says that you make money by playing the opposite of what the other players are playing. So, if he's a loose aggro monkey, be a tight human. Flop a pair (TP is the nuts here) and go to showdown hell and ...


3

This is a general question about specific hands, so my answer depends on my general style. Also about stacks, there's no small or medium on cash games. In fact, you should enable the auto reload feature to always refill your stack to 100 BB so you can never be short stack. If you don't do this, then you're not play optimal from the very start, regardless the ...


2

I would play super tight and wait for very strong starting hand (AA, AK, KK, QQ, etc.) and then push all-in. If he is really a manic player as you suggest there's a good chance he'll call and the odds will be in your favour. Update: I'd probably only raise all-in on a small table (< 4 players), otherwise I'd do a standard raise. Best time for this ...


2

I think you should continue accepting his all-ins if you are really very much over his push range. You will make him a bankrupt at the distance :)


2

I don't know what a wheel of straight means, but not having a full straight of 5 cards in a row even 4 cards is worth nothing besides high Card. Your value was High Card A (which is on board already) A straight means 5 Cards in a row, so you missed a 8 or a K. He wins with pair of AA , that's correct. A wheel or is the name for the low straight ( ...


2

This is an excellent question. Seriously. One of the top on this site. You can use this technique, especially in multi-table tournaments and heads'up situations. But you have to be very aware of its consequences. Some reasons why you could do this: 1). piss other players off. This works both online and live. If you constantly take 2 - 3 or more minutes to ...


2

The question, as always, is, "Why is this person still playing?" If you are up against someone whom you know chases wild draws, like drawing to a flush with only three suited cards, then you may well get busted when they actually do get lucky and flop a set. On the other hand, if the player isn't a loose cannon, but limped in and calls bets on the flop, ...


2

Sometimes you realy can't avoid it It realy depends what type of game you are playing if it's super turbo or turbo where you are < 10 BB i guess shoving PF is the right play. If you have no information about your player and you have 20BB in a fast pace game i don't think you can avoid an all in either because of the 5-7BB PF raise. Tournament play and ...


2

Many years ago I struggled to play at micro stakes level because the level of the players was so bad... Anyway, once you adapt to it, it's actually really really really easy to win at those micro stakes. If you want to play ABC poker, then go play on low stakes, just outside the micro stake region. Remember, at any level there will be fishes, and one does ...


2

You shouldn't be choosing a starting hand because it's been X amount of time since the last time you played a hand. The primary goal in poker is to win chips. You achieve this goal by: Identifying your opponents strategy. Determine, and implement, the maximally exploitative response. So, before you even sit down at a table, whether it's online or live, ...


2

I have always followed the Sam Farha mantra: Against a good player I can outplay him, but against a poor player I need a hand. Good player recognize a situation in which they may not have the best likely hood of winning a hand. It could be argued it costs them pots, but on the long run it would be a profitable situation. Weaker players don't recognize ...


2

The more you get into the game, the more aggressive it gets so this is something you'll need to get used to if you want to progress. I'd recommend finding out if they're loose or passive aggressive first before trying to pick them off. To get a handle on this, you'll need to see a few of their showdowns. If they're playing the occasional wild hand then ...


2

Your question is far too broad. There are many different variants of NLHE. Cash, multi-table tournaments that are either scheduled or sit'n'go style, heads-up, 6-max, 8-max, 9-max, 10-max, 11-max, live play, online play, etc. etc. etc. On top of that, NLHE is a game complex enough that it's currently unsolvable. There are too many possibilities and 3-player ...


2

There is this concept: bankroll management. You can't enter a table and just sit down with all your chips, that's a real bad idea. In general you might want to have 10 to 20 buy ins with your bankroll. Example: If you have 100 euro/dollar on your account, you should be playing on tables with around a 10 euro/dollar buy in. So if you go broke, you only lose ...


2

You start with yourself. Poker is broad, a few minutes to learn then a lifetime to master. You discover were you are weak, and were you are strong. Then exploit and learn accordingly. There are huge resources and no silver bullets. Your question is not a good question in the sense that it can not be answered simply. It cannot be answered easily because what ...


2

Be very, very careful with overly aggressive play and all-ins in the manner you describe. Two primary things jump out at me from your question: For most of the hands you mentioned, you must, must get multi-way action. All of the hands you mention need a lot of pre-flop odds and implied odds for you to make the profitable over the long term. It's ironic in ...


2

In my opinion, Jon's analysis is fairly good, but I think this is even a bit simpler than he's made it out to be. You say your friends are calling machines. So, by definition, they're not going to fold to any bluffs. Whatever you bet, they're going to come right along for the ride. Therefore, by betting, all you're doing is increasing the size of the pot ...


1

Low stakes poker is otherwise known as "no fold 'em" poker. Most players for low stakes are "calling stations." This causes you to alter your strategy in two ways: First, when you raise with your big hands (big pairs and AK), as you should, realize that you will raise people in rather than out. That is, you will occasionally win with hands that have a 20-30 ...


1

I would use my hands, rather than my bets, to "polarize my range. If I wanted to convince people that I will call with any pair, I would show down a 2-2. (Then avoid other low pairs like 3-3 or 4-4). If I wanted to "represent" any two suited cards, maybe 3-2 or even 6-2 suited. Ditto for "connectors," without the suitedness.


1

I can only speak from my personal experience which is based on 4 years of really active playing poker. Once we had a nice player on the table WHO always acts the same, at least I didn't see a difference. It was pretty boring because he always took himself 30 seconds, even if it was an easy fold for him. He stared on the board, head down the same amount of ...



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