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8

Don't blame the "bad players" for you losing all your money with a one-pair hand. If limp-calling a low pair preflop vs you is making them money when they hit their set, it's not them that is playing poorly, but you. They are playing profitably because you are paying off time after time. I'm not trying to be harsh, but to shine the light of reality on ...


7

It affects strategy in no-limit, and especially pot-limit play. Some simple examples: There's $300 in the pot, and you plan to try a $200 bluff to take it. Well, if one of your opponent's only has $50 left, then you're really only betting $50 at him, and he can call with much less risk. Similarly, if you make a $50 bet on an early round, and your opponent ...


6

No. The player with KQ would win the whole pot. The winner of the pot is the player who can make the best 5-card hand from the 7 possible cards -- 5 board cards plus their two hole cards. Player 1 has KQ, so his 7 cards are KKKQ642. Ignoring suits, the best possible hand here is KKKQ6, or trip kings with a queen kicker. Player 2 has K9, so his 7 cards ...


6

Time and practice. If you're used to only playing 1 table, you can't expect to go from 1 table to 6 tables just like that. What I found for me to be the best solution (for myself anyway) was to start slow and set goals. On top of these I cannot recommend them enough, get a HUD. Starting Slow: You need to realise that playing multiple tables is tough, and ...


5

This is an excellent question. Seriously. One of the top on this site. You can use this technique, especially in multi-table tournaments and heads'up situations. But you have to be very aware of its consequences. Some reasons why you could do this: 1). piss other players off. This works both online and live. If you constantly take 2 - 3 or more minutes to ...


5

I think this is the wrong way to think about what happened: I don't want this to happen again The situation you were in was a dream; a player willing to get it in while you held the better hand? Again and again for lots of money? I want that to happen as often as possible! The fact that you can lose (and lose a lot) in these situations is something you ...


5

Many people have an impression that because the chip leader at a table has the majority of the chips, they should be "bullying" the table. This isn't the best way to look at the situation. What a large stack gives you is more utility. The utility to outplay your opponents by having the full arsenal of poker moves at your disposal. If you were short stacked, ...


5

In general to calculate your percentage of hitting you can do the following: Count your outs. In your case: 13 cards of your suit minus the 4 you already see make 9 cards in the deck which will make your flush. Calculate the amount of cards left. Since we can not know the cards of our opponents, we include them in our calculation. Hence there are 52 -2 ...


4

I have always followed the Sam Farha mantra: Against a good player I can outplay him, but against a poor player I need a hand. Good player recognize a situation in which they may not have the best likely hood of winning a hand. It could be argued it costs them pots, but on the long run it would be a profitable situation. Weaker players don't recognize ...


4

If you cover everyone at the table but no one covers you, then you have a ton of fold equity preflop. Most people will be folding almost everything whenever you open the pot. So you should open raise very often. As big stack you can often steal the blinds from any position. A few orbits of collecting the blinds in a tournament and your stack will be ...


4

I think it's important to not try to bite off too much at once. You're right that you have a lot of options, but focusing on one thing and really attacking that is IMO always going to be more productive than a casual perusal of a variety of topics. You might want to look at some of the online coaching sites like CardRunners, Run It Once, or Tournament Poker ...


4

The best way to beat this kind of player is tight-aggressive. you're not going to outplay this one, you're not going to bluff them, and you're certainly not going to be able to control them. All you can do is beat them. But it requires very disciplined uncreative play. You let them self destruct right into your stack. This kind of player is going to raise ...


4

In casino poker games, the cards are reshuffled for each hand, so "counting" would be useless. Shuffle tracking might be possible, but the edge from doing so would be dubious. A casino would be wasting its time to look for or prevent such things.


3

Your question is far too broad. There are many different variants of NLHE. Cash, multi-table tournaments that are either scheduled or sit'n'go style, heads-up, 6-max, 8-max, 9-max, 10-max, 11-max, live play, online play, etc. etc. etc. On top of that, NLHE is a game complex enough that it's currently unsolvable. There are too many possibilities and 3-player ...


3

What kind of plays could I make to convince my opponents that I have a polarised hand range? You don't make plays to convince your opponents that you have a polarized hand range, you just polarize your hand range. If they fail to pick up on that, you've profited greatly. There are generally three types of ranges: Polarized With a polarized range, your ...


3

I'll give you my perspective as someone who has abandoned cash games in favor of only doing live MTTs. I think a lot of this will depend on your current level of experience and your game will change over time. Of course, you need to be sound in things like picking your pre-flop hands, but these are some things that I know I need to work on for my tourneys: ...


3

Many years ago I struggled to play at micro stakes level because the level of the players was so bad... Anyway, once you adapt to it, it's actually really really really easy to win at those micro stakes. If you want to play ABC poker, then go play on low stakes, just outside the micro stake region. Remember, at any level there will be fishes, and one does ...


3

Haha... I know the type. You're ahead but he sucks out on the turn or river and stacks you. It's allright... we all have been here. A basic poker sentence says that you make money by playing the opposite of what the other players are playing. So, if he's a loose aggro monkey, be a tight human. Flop a pair (TP is the nuts here) and go to showdown hell and ...


3

Be very, very careful with overly aggressive play and all-ins in the manner you describe. Two primary things jump out at me from your question: For most of the hands you mentioned, you must, must get multi-way action. All of the hands you mention need a lot of pre-flop odds and implied odds for you to make the profitable over the long term. It's ironic in ...


3

UPDATE Here is a quote from this site on ICM ... As we have seen, the more chips a player has, the less each chip is worth. Doubling the amount of chips does not double the dollar expected value ($EV). This is referred to as the diminishing marginal return and it is extremely important that you as a tournament player understand this: Each ...


3

It really depends on your stack. Sometimes you'll get to a point where you just need to gamble. When you have a few BB left you don't have the luxury of time to sit back and wait for solid hands. Also depends greatly on the type of tournament you're playing. A regular speed tournament plays very differently to a hyper-turbo tournament. Also I wouldn't say ...


3

I would play 99 in early position. I would do a standard raise from this position. If the flop contains a 9 you are golden. Anything below 9 you still have good odds. Anything above a 9 could be in your range (at least my range) for early position play.


3

It is just a rule of poker. When you take a seat you must wait for the BB to come to you before you can start playing. Or you can post a BB to start playing immediately. Imagine this scenario. A player stands up when the BB gets to them then sits back down when the SB passes. If they don't pay to play then they have avoided paying the binds. If you ...


2

I would play super tight and wait for very strong starting hand (AA, AK, KK, QQ, etc.) and then push all-in. If he is really a manic player as you suggest there's a good chance he'll call and the odds will be in your favour. Update: I'd probably only raise all-in on a small table (< 4 players), otherwise I'd do a standard raise. Best time for this ...


2

I think you should continue accepting his all-ins if you are really very much over his push range. You will make him a bankrupt at the distance :)


2

The question, as always, is, "Why is this person still playing?" If you are up against someone whom you know chases wild draws, like drawing to a flush with only three suited cards, then you may well get busted when they actually do get lucky and flop a set. On the other hand, if the player isn't a loose cannon, but limped in and calls bets on the flop, ...



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