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6

When to use a low-value range There is no time when an exclusively low value range is optimal. The purpose of including low value hands in a range is to extract additional value from high value hands, or to play more hands in general against opponents that fold too often. In the first case, you need high value hands in your range to make the strategy ...


4

To have every nut hand in your range: 22+, 32s+, 42s+, 52s+, ATs (pocket pairs; suited 0, 1, and 2 gappers; ATs) 22+ covers all nut 4-board-card straight flushes, and the combination of {32s+, 42s+, 52s+, ATs} (ATs is a special case for KQJ) covers all 3-board-card straight flushes. Since it includes one of every rank, it covers quads with 3-of-a-kind on ...


3

You want to maximize your EV whenever you can. There are really rare occasions for breaking this rule and take rake or other aspects (time, your extimated EV, length of game) into consideration. These considerations can increase your hourly but usually don't increase your bb/hand stat. For example : When I play HU SNG versus regular and I know I have small ...


3

What kind of plays could I make to convince my opponents that I have a polarised hand range? You don't make plays to convince your opponents that you have a polarized hand range, you just polarize your hand range. If they fail to pick up on that, you've profited greatly. There are generally three types of ranges: Polarized With a polarized range, your ...


2

It is correct to say there are only 3 ways to get the AA, when you do that calculation you get 0.467 The rest of the difference in equity comes from the fact that AKs doesn't have the same equity over all cases of 76o. It depends on whether or not those cards share a suit with the AK. You will get the correct value for equity if you split it into all ...


2

I like this question. In contrast to Bogdan, I think weighted ranges do make sense. To stay with this example (and for the moment, forgetting about the difference between checking and betting), the UTG player surely would play any AA hand he is dealt. On the other hand, he typically would sometimes play marginal hands (like in this position say 99) and ...


2

Completely depends on your opponent. You can start out min-raising 90-100% but if he 3-bet shoves a ton then you can't do this. Or you can try limping and min-betting lots of flops, but he if shoves PF from the BB a ton, you can't do it (there is a hint as to how you should play against people who take those strategies themselves!). Against really good ...


1

I would use my hands, rather than my bets, to "polarize my range. If I wanted to convince people that I will call with any pair, I would show down a 2-2. (Then avoid other low pairs like 3-3 or 4-4). If I wanted to "represent" any two suited cards, maybe 3-2 or even 6-2 suited. Ditto for "connectors," without the suitedness.


1

I can only speak from my personal experience which is based on 4 years of really active playing poker. Once we had a nice player on the table WHO always acts the same, at least I didn't see a difference. It was pretty boring because he always took himself 30 seconds, even if it was an easy fold for him. He stared on the board, head down the same amount of ...


1

I think there are four reasons why people often stick to unweighted ranges, only a couple of which are theoretically interesting. Optimal play often requires ranges with weights of 100%. Deception is important to poker, but deception can often be achieved without playing the same hand in different ways in a situation. See The Mathematics of Poker for many ...


1

One example I can come out is a situation where if you make a raise, you put your opponent to a decision that they will be comitted whatever they do, so either they need to push or fold. Because of this reason, you have the same decision too after they made their (push or fold). So getting in a situation like this with a range not polarized is simply bad, ...



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